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What’s new in… Fashion & Beauty? 5 Reads and 5 opportunities

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Welcome to our monthly trends round-up, where we share five fascinating articles on a particular vertical to identify new currents in brand innovation and consumer desires. Last month we spoke about retail innovation and changing consumer trends, which are driving the likes of “showrooming” and third-spaces. This week we move on to fashion and beauty… where Selfridges are responding to increasingly androgynous fashion trends by creating ‘genderless’ sections in its stores

Are gender-neutral stores the future of shopping? Liza Darwin, Refinery 29

“Dubbed the Agender Project, this in-store experience bills itself as “a fashion exploration of the masculine, the feminine, and the interplay…found in between.” Selfridges introduces 'agender' shopping The idea that “Men are from Mars, Women are from Venus” is pretty old (the self-help book was published in 1992). Some premium skincare brands such as Aesop and Malin + Goetz adopt a similar stance… But can this trend filter down into middle-market beauty? It’s hard to say. Original Source, the niche shower gel brand acquired by PZ Cussons in 2002, has a vibrant, graphic, single ingredient-led position that reads as gender-free… But a few years ago they introduced an ‘Extreme’, highly masculine coded line, presumably to reassure a male consumer who found gender-neutrality a step too far. But not all men, as the next article shows:

Men Add Facials to Their Ever-Expanding Grooming Routines Noel Duran, Yahoo Beauty

From ‘agender’ to male grooming – it’s official; the beauty industry is no longer dominated by women. Society’s acceptance of ‘metrosexuality’ has resulted in male grooming’s rise as one of the biggest growing sectors within the industry. Noel Duran explores Manhatten to find out where men are going to get their deep clean facials: Male-grooming increases as men seek facials “Recently there’s been a major uptick in dudes getting facials, peels, and extractions at spas across the country, enjoying the closer shaves and clearer skin these procedures provide [...] but not every man is willing to walk into a spa decorated with fresh-picked florals and ask for a facial. Luckily, there are men’s salons and spas that cater to these tastes.”

Male grooming is not a trend, it’s a cultural shift in society’s thinking. I could write an essay on masculinity’s so-called “identity crisis”… but there is no “crisis”, just acceptance of individuality. Unlike male grooming, fashion does come and go like the wind, and with Fashion Week just gone, Philip Picardi introduces the “next big” hairstyle – ‘Non-Hair’. A trend that requires minimal upkeep, but nonetheless apparently a big bank balance…

Non-Hair is apparently the beauty trend of the moment Phillip Picardi, Refinery 29

It’s a luxury reserved for the genetically blessed and, well, the ultra-rich, who can afford the upkeep that comes with a low-maintenance daily routine.”

Non-Hair is the next big trend Within this trend, a fascinating tension – “undone done” might be one way to phrase it, aka the art of looking like you haven’t tried… But still getting a chic result. In order to get this desired look, ‘not actually trying’ isn’t an option – instead it’s about finding the right invisible fixes (often sea salt sprays and dry shampoos) that leave hair with a loose, natural texture… But just make it a bit better. We see no signs of a return to ultra-groomed fashions, so this tension between naturalness and chic will continue to inspire innovation in haircare and beauty products.

A topic that is less in the public eye is that of an industry foe – women smoking. The publication Cream International released an article back in October highlighting this irony:

Your future is not pretty Cream International

“As part of the selfie-generation, young women find themselves compelled to project an attractive physical appearance to fit in socially. Yet it is this physical appearance that is heavily impacted by smoking: bags under the eyes, stained teeth, premature ageing, dull skin and even thinning hair.”  Women seeking perfection yet smoke is the big beauty irony. But could all of this change with innovative skincare devices? Nicole Tyrimou evaluates the industry’s latest gadgets:

Are beauty devices changing the rules in skincare? Nicole Tyrimou, Euro Monitor

 “Increasing demand for more sophisticated offerings in skin care in mature markets as well as skin care’s great dependence on the gadget-loving Asia Pacific region has helped beauty devices garner more attention in skin care.” What can beauty devices do for skin care? Innovation in the beauty industry has just got technologically sophisticated – or perhaps skincare has just caught u. Following the rest of retail, devices are taking over and skincare has not got away without a makeover. Nicole Tyrimou reviews this maturing industry in the gadget-loving Asia-Pacific market… And where Korea leads, the West usually follows. Lots of opportunities here in the skincare sector. *

So that’s the latest in beauty and haircare from me, Ed Hawes.  Join us next week for another five reads from another sector – suggestions welcome at @FaceResearch!


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